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Potassium

It is well-known that Australian soils are low in phosphorus. What is not so well-known is that many of our soils are also low in potassium. As a result, the animal manures that we increasingly use on our gardens in place of chemical fertilisers are also low in potassium. This has led to an increase in the incidence of plant diseases. Although potash could never be described as a fungicide, its correct use can certainly minimise diseases such as blackspot, rust and powdery mildew. These appear most visibly on the leaves and fruit of affected plants, but can affect any part.

Potassium takes part in more than 40 enzyme actions which help control many plant functions. Of potassium's multiple roles within the plant, one important one is its work in building cellulose, a component of plant cell walls.
If conditions are suitable, a fungus spore will germinate after landing on a host plant and form a tiny root system known as a haustoria. This produces an organic chemical, designed to break down the cellulose barrier of the cell wall and allow the fungus to reach the sap stream, upon which it feeds. If the cell wall is thin, this is achieved with relative ease and the fungus flourishes while the host plant suffers. If the cell wall is thick, the fungal spore is unable to penetrate the cell wall and it eventually dies before it can reach the life-giving sap of the host plant.

When using organic fertilisers, look at the analysis on the back of the bag - if it contains less than 3% potassium, you should add some to it. About 10% sulphate of potash will usually do the trick. Potash can be applied pure, at a rate of 15g per square metre, for a quick fix.

For plants that are particularly susceptible to disease, such as roses, it's a good idea to apply about 150g of sulphate of potash to each bush at 3-4 monthly intervals.

Sulphate of potash is known to improve the quality and the colour of flowers, probably because of the increased enzyme activity. It also enhances the formation of proteins and sugars, probably because it influences photosynthesis, the process by which these sugars are made.

In frost-prone areas, plants treated with potash are better able to withstand the frost because of the higher cellulose content in the cell walls. Plants with slender stems and large flower heads such as Iceland poppies and Gerberas will hold their heads erect if adequate levels of potash are used.

Begonia

Bedding begonias are neat, compact plants that prefer dappled shade but will adapt to full sun. They require protection from frost and prefer moist, well-drained soil. They need regular watering in dry weather, especially if planted in a sunny position. Begonias will last a second season, and can be cut back after winter.

Timing:

Plant from spring through autumn to flowers in spring through to autumn. Will flower 4-6 weeks after planting.

Positioning:

Full sun or semi-shade.

Height:

20cm

Planting Distance:

15-25cm

Colour:

Pink, red, & white. Available as straight colours or mixes.

Use:

Dwarf bedding, edging, massed display clumps in the garden, rockeries, containers, baskets.

Alyssum

Sweet smelling, fast growing, dwarf growing plants with clusters of tiny flowers. Alyssum is delightful for edging, rockeries and ground cover. It drapes attractively over containers, rockeries and walls. Perennial but often treated as an annual, it often self-sows. Responds well to trimming, especially after winter.

Timing:

Plant all year round in most climates for flowers all year round.

Positioning:

Prefers full sun. Will grow in semi-shade.

Height:

8-10cm

Planting Distance:

10-15cm

Colour:

Singles or mixes of purple, pink, white & lavender.

Use:

Borders, edging, rockeries, mass planting, between bricks or stones in paths and paving, containers.

Azalea Lace bugs

Azalea Lace Bugs

 

The Azalea Lace Bug (Stephanitis pyrioides), an insect originating from Japan, is a signicant pest of azaleas and rhododendrons in many regions of the world where these plants are cultivated. The bug especially attacks plants growing in sunny, exposed situations.
Symptoms of lace bug attack
The feeding activity of every stage of the lace bug life cycle produces a widespread grey-whitish/silvery mottling on the upper surfaces of the leaves, similar in colour but coarser in texture to that caused by spider mites. Adult and juvenile lace bugs feed on the undersurfaces of azalea and rhododendron leaves. The mottling is usually so severe that leaves that have been attacked are permanently disfigured. Leaves will die and fall from the plant well before their time. Sticky brown patches or ‘varnish’ (excretory products of the lace bugs) appear on the undersides of the leaves. The Azalea Lace Bug is widespread throughout Australia.
Life cycle
The lace bug has at least two (and possibly four) generations per year in Australia. Adults reach 4-6 mm in length. They have clear, heavily veined wings - hence the insects’ common name. Juvenile lace bugs are wingless, spiny, have long antennae relative to their body length, and have a black and tan mottled colouring giving them an overall dark appearance.
There are probably five nymphal instars. Nymphal moult skins often remain stuck to lace bug varnish on the undersides of leaves. Lace bugs overwinter in the egg stage, hatching when conditions improve for them in the sping. Eggs are inserted into the mid-vein on the underside of the azalea or rhododendron leaf as they are laid. They have a brown protective covering which hardens on contact with air.
Control
Lace bugs are particularly difficult to control. There is currently no known effective biological control agent (e.g. a parasitic wasp). There are some pesticides that are registered for the control of this pest.



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- Posted by Zeal Property Maintenance P/L from iPad.