tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-89978772649218926982024-02-07T10:43:40.743-08:00Gardening Wahroongapropertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-27421643198981304792014-02-16T22:29:00.000-08:002014-02-24T20:48:36.317-08:00Good bugs and bad bugs. Why we have so many bad bugs in Sydney<h4><span style="line-height: 1.3em;">One strategy for organic gardeners is to enhance & maximise the natural biological controls present in a garden ecosystems. </span></h4><h4><span style="line-height: 1.3em;">Ask yourself does your garden provide a nectar source for beneficial, pest-controlling insects? </span></h4><h4><span style="line-height: 1.3em;">By planting particular flowers and herbs known as insectary plants has been proven to improve the natural balance and reduce pest outbreaks.<br></span>The Zeal group can provide a good seed mix that contains colourful re-seeding annual and perennial flowers including red clover, alyssum, cosmos, marigolds, Queen Anne's lace, buckwheat, lucerne, dill, caraway, coriander and phacelia (when available), gypsophila. It blooms much of the year, providing nectar, pollen and habitat for wild and introduced beneficial insects, such as predatory mites and tiny micro wasps, ladybirds, lacewings, hoverflies, tachnid flies and predatory beetles. These beneficial insects or 'good bugs' are generally small with correspondingly small mouthparts, so they are only able to feed on particular flowers with suitable attributes. By providing a plentiful food supply the 'good bugs' live longer and reproduce more. As well as a good ground cover to keep your weeds down in garden beds.<br> Sydney has become " tones of Green centric", which is only good forbad bugs. So for the love of God Sydney wake up to color and get good bug friendly in your gardens.<br> <br>Growing flowers will not only add colour and beauty to your garden, but will have other, benefits. Flowers are always beautiful but keep in mind that so far, there are few, if any, organic cut flowers being offered and you may unknowingly be introducing chemical contamination to your home. So, always consider growing your own!<br>Flowers also provide a food source for honey bees.</h4><h4><br> Calendula 'Maayan Orange' </h4><h4>Organically certified<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7FxThZH216Ud8J3uc7MLv0N_eiT3srEn2PxYDFEC9eXYvcwN91ipS3JmRc4C13FoNaVbwaiiX6er_fmXl9mmHMj5tAMKvHOlqK_rJ50wuMLxXXE-G1AW2GQOzPQzPqEJoejwxJgOSoDQ5/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A13%252520pm.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7FxThZH216Ud8J3uc7MLv0N_eiT3srEn2PxYDFEC9eXYvcwN91ipS3JmRc4C13FoNaVbwaiiX6er_fmXl9mmHMj5tAMKvHOlqK_rJ50wuMLxXXE-G1AW2GQOzPQzPqEJoejwxJgOSoDQ5/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A13%252520pm.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472098.6992" class="alignleft" width="198" height="170" alt=""></a> <br>Calendula officinalis<br>syn. English Marigold<br>Calendula 'Maayan Orange'; is a hardy annual flower, to 60 cm high, with bright, glowing blooms of a dark orange hue. It flowers for a long period during winter and spring, particularly if regularly deadheaded. Calendula will tolerate any soil in full sun, although it prefers a moderate to rich loam. It has a long history of use for its medicinal properties and as a yellow dye. The flower petals can be used as a substitute for saffron and may be added to salads. The flowers are also used in skin and cosmetic preparations. </h4><h4>Sow late summer and autumn, it takes about 8-10 weeks from sowing to flowering. Suitable for temperate and subtropical areas.<br> <br> Cornflower 'Blue<span style="line-height: 1.3em;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyedxeTs5ahhf5H2OVyrR_YEN1vk7uW9C2AdknQwuhnjAcKQjfc7lo5ASubKm0_3x0smpxt6JXVJ5bjSW7XWRjhhz4JhPPellIH79ymIXc8rfDSF8tbIu50xJb0IsT9vkk2lDiyZ72Km5d/s391/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A14%252520pm.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyedxeTs5ahhf5H2OVyrR_YEN1vk7uW9C2AdknQwuhnjAcKQjfc7lo5ASubKm0_3x0smpxt6JXVJ5bjSW7XWRjhhz4JhPPellIH79ymIXc8rfDSF8tbIu50xJb0IsT9vkk2lDiyZ72Km5d/s391/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A14%252520pm.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472136.7642" class="alignleft" width="300" height="391" alt=""></a> <br>Centaurea cyanus<br> <br>A hardy, annual flower to 1m high with pretty blue flowers on grey-green foliage. A useful flower for attracting bees and butterflies and as a long-lasting cut flower. </h4><h4><br></h4><h4><br></h4><h4>A native of Europe, it prefers a well-drained soil in a sunny position, with protection from wind. Suitable for temperate and subtropical areas. Sow seed from March to September.</h4><h4><br> <br>Cosmos bipinnatus var. cosmicos<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw8ctxYb38OW7TqIE1ch0lO_SPy_S3V0cbNxOuKDQzS4zDBf3TXMFsqeuB3S8GURRjYW7t12tICuRJqzvHDuuzlLWLACKwOJzbUJ0wsYtO3-b4ycRq6aiV_BPo0FVwwv3NyUz2BoIKd_gs/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A18%252520pm.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw8ctxYb38OW7TqIE1ch0lO_SPy_S3V0cbNxOuKDQzS4zDBf3TXMFsqeuB3S8GURRjYW7t12tICuRJqzvHDuuzlLWLACKwOJzbUJ0wsYtO3-b4ycRq6aiV_BPo0FVwwv3NyUz2BoIKd_gs/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A18%252520pm.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472186.4954" class="alignleft" width="198" height="166" alt=""></a> <br>'Sea Shells' is a beautiful cosmos, the rolled, tubular petals are unusual and are thought to look like sea shells. It blooms in shades of pink, red and white; a good background plant that grows over a metre tall. Feathery foliage fills plants in from top to bottom creating a bushy look. </h4><h4>A native of Mexico, it prefers a sunny position with protection from wind. Also useful in the orchard as a bee forage and nectar source for beneficial insects. Suitable for temperate and subtropical areas.<br> <br> Larkspur 'Galilee Blue' </h4><h4> Organically certified<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZlureqE-4yZr9QCyilSK6HYT5k2kFwXXmgvenwR90SvNhhrFttWAGk-9ibbQQL1teHYx03vW8CmWsUu5UvfJ3cTKzqqY1Mep4i2DCDtfKv43UTb1Tg98mA47fzP3M3ZKemYMkX90osQuw/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A24%252520pm.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZlureqE-4yZr9QCyilSK6HYT5k2kFwXXmgvenwR90SvNhhrFttWAGk-9ibbQQL1teHYx03vW8CmWsUu5UvfJ3cTKzqqY1Mep4i2DCDtfKv43UTb1Tg98mA47fzP3M3ZKemYMkX90osQuw/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A24%252520pm.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472189.4722" class="alignleft" width="198" height="166" alt=""></a>Consolida ajacis<br>Larkspurs are tall annuals (1 - 1.5 m) with finely cut feathery foliage and double blue flowers Tall flower spikes are produced in early summer that are excellent for cut flowers or the back of garden beds. </h4><h4>Sow seed in autumn, it requires a cool temperature (13°C) to germinate well.</h4><h4><br>Nigella damascena<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiII2lJKOulkl-j0xzgKogpIAm7yw0IBCAyXoOefS7aJmmpChRyFjwU5AHu1EBIhd_oYE8butkPYUHkppdr15IxoPAQgJ05jUrBlytOWrL2S6ACoq1Hx5tl0ykBIEGBjfEN8NAtcUfeT1yl/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A25%252520pm.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiII2lJKOulkl-j0xzgKogpIAm7yw0IBCAyXoOefS7aJmmpChRyFjwU5AHu1EBIhd_oYE8butkPYUHkppdr15IxoPAQgJ05jUrBlytOWrL2S6ACoq1Hx5tl0ykBIEGBjfEN8NAtcUfeT1yl/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A25%252520pm.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472128.5715" class="alignleft" width="198" height="183" alt=""></a> <br>'Miss Jekyll Indigo Blue' is a frost-hardy, annual cottage garden plant with rich, indigo blue, starry flowers nestled in fine foliage. It can be used as cut flower and lasts 7 to 10 days in a vase; the seed pods can also be dried. It is upright and fast growing, 40 to 60 cm high with a spread of 20 cm. It is attractive to bees and beneficial insects. The of the seeds were once stored with clothing and believed to repel insects. </h4><h4>It prefers to grow in full sun in a rich, well-drained soil. If seed pods are left to develop, then self-sowing is common the next year. Sow late summer to early autumn in temperate and subtropical areas.<br> <br> Marigold 'Fiesta' H<span style="line-height: 1.3em;">Tagetes patula</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitUyN_pyNoDIH24ZJINY7kq3NnkErbkM5wNtDy0Wwiv7TEr21buZEZwt0KMOMtYlJz62vV_MSVE_X9HRgLkdXzXE2gAUKk_FU2BL9IJvnPmXY1J1HqYNAVZnBMCrQdZou3mW7oF5BsJNlw/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A29%252520pm.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitUyN_pyNoDIH24ZJINY7kq3NnkErbkM5wNtDy0Wwiv7TEr21buZEZwt0KMOMtYlJz62vV_MSVE_X9HRgLkdXzXE2gAUKk_FU2BL9IJvnPmXY1J1HqYNAVZnBMCrQdZou3mW7oF5BsJNlw/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%25252012%25253A29%252520pm.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472105.6433" class="alignleft" width="198" height="189" alt=""></a> <br>'Fiesta' is a French marigold with dark tawny red and lemon bi-coloured flowers that bloom for a long period and will brighten any garden. Use as an edging along garden beds or in pots. Marigold petals are edible and can be used to decorate salads.<br> Marigolds have long been believed to be a helpful addition to the organic garden. It is now known they have a role in suppressing soil diseases such as Verticillium Wilt and nematodes. This can be achieved by interplanting susceptible crops such as tomatoes with marigolds. It is also useful in nematode control if the plants are chopped up at the end of summer and dug through the soil. Here is information on nematodes. </h4><h4>Sow spring and summer, autumn in frost-free areas only. Suitable for temperate, subtropical and tropical areas.</h4><h4><br> Marigold 'Sparky' H x <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn84NIU0SvdC243tzu9en_Tw3zcT9DcmTAJ3Rm2N4NaBjcyBliaDyUdNpIB-xT1zaZf9lKKfb-oDlUVdrSLbfKj0ZQvJYqFQb2pTjHJLZUze-BL5I4Gmq4EcqRo-cVADaCoqE5td9hQsZr/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%2525204%25253A56%252520pm.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn84NIU0SvdC243tzu9en_Tw3zcT9DcmTAJ3Rm2N4NaBjcyBliaDyUdNpIB-xT1zaZf9lKKfb-oDlUVdrSLbfKj0ZQvJYqFQb2pTjHJLZUze-BL5I4Gmq4EcqRo-cVADaCoqE5td9hQsZr/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%2525204%25253A56%252520pm.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472144.4094" class="alignleft" width="198" height="160" alt=""></a> <br>Tagetes patula<br>'Sparky' is a French marigold mix of tawny red and gold bi-coloured flowers that bloom for a long period and will brighten any garden. Use as an edging along garden beds or in pots. Marigold petals are edible and can be used to decorate salads.<br>Marigolds have long been believed to be a helpful addition to the organic garden. </h4><h4>It is now known they have a role in suppressing soil diseases such as Verticillium Wilt and nematodes. This can be achieved by interplanting susceptible crops such as tomatoes with marigolds. </h4><h4>It is also useful in nematode control if the plants are chopped up at the end of summer and dug through the soil. Here is information on nematodes. Sow spring and summer, autumn in frost-free areas only. Suitable for temperate, subtropical and tropical areas.</h4><h4><br> Nasturtium 'Jewel Mixed' Organically certified</h4><h4> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDoALi3DxpWiVaAOMYEw43AAwKtnFNCqRyVAmFZRsJextZzfRTjhEwhajxK6hhLSqcYdq0Vn2X9OuQrF-6ZARdlNgH-XJoBxtUrUfZPvsP9ZG9C8gtEkHCu0-09YxlFd0cM7PKM7BRJGcF/s591/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%2525204%25253A59%252520pm.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDoALi3DxpWiVaAOMYEw43AAwKtnFNCqRyVAmFZRsJextZzfRTjhEwhajxK6hhLSqcYdq0Vn2X9OuQrF-6ZARdlNgH-XJoBxtUrUfZPvsP9ZG9C8gtEkHCu0-09YxlFd0cM7PKM7BRJGcF/s500/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%2525204%25253A59%252520pm.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472193.04" class="alignleft" width="299" height="500" alt=""></a>Tropaeolum majus<br>'Jewel Mix' has sweetly scented flowers in yellow, orange, salmon and deep red that bloom for a long period. Leaves are lily-pad shaped and bright green. A wide range of uses include: ornamental in hanging baskets; as a hardy groundcover under fruit trees; as a salad leaf with a tangy, watercress-like flavour; as an edible flower or garnish; as an edible seed used as a ‘caper’ substitute. </h4><h4><br></h4><h4><br></h4><h4>Sow spring and summer, autumn in frost-free areas only. Suitable for temperate, subtropical and tropical areas.<br> <br> Nasturtium '</h4><h4>Empress of India'<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgUsLpzX4_Q9i_8ykPON0YXLR8pQKuevLrOrn80vNHkYnmfn9sp-Y7RpH6nlQne5Ah4Iz5Q7P9MS-tSXN3FC94yllwSIE7Qb-ttEuIaxSVxYmxjhhixSWBB86eJcaggoDfgN-CrlZdvoQY/s170/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%2525205%25253A13%252520pm.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgUsLpzX4_Q9i_8ykPON0YXLR8pQKuevLrOrn80vNHkYnmfn9sp-Y7RpH6nlQne5Ah4Iz5Q7P9MS-tSXN3FC94yllwSIE7Qb-ttEuIaxSVxYmxjhhixSWBB86eJcaggoDfgN-CrlZdvoQY/s170/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%2525205%25253A13%252520pm.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472155.2148" class="alignleft" width="170" height="115" alt=""></a> <br>Tropaeolum majus<br>A Victorian heirloom flower with vibrant, long spurred, crimson-scarlet flowers that stand out against the dark blue-green foliage. Plants are compact and suitable for containers and hanging baskets. A wide range of other uses includes: as a hardy groundcover under fruit trees; as a salad leaf with a tangy, watercress-like flavour; as an edible flower or garnish; as an edible seed used as a ‘caper’ substitute. </h4><h4>Sow spring and summer, autumn in frost-free areas only. Suitable for temperate, subtropical and tropical areas.<br> <br> Phacelia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimT0AGvTefDlAgo317X8UhP85JgbgqLR3LdbuT2nw0RT312CPj3WB_rkVjFpm_gJndNj5bSv1Cf7v6_KCPpMDdKtVXVBla2oeSzi5A_cEYQ5JJfcJ-9TChRciG92-ksp4MstEa0QLEB_Ke/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%2525205%25253A14%252520pm.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimT0AGvTefDlAgo317X8UhP85JgbgqLR3LdbuT2nw0RT312CPj3WB_rkVjFpm_gJndNj5bSv1Cf7v6_KCPpMDdKtVXVBla2oeSzi5A_cEYQ5JJfcJ-9TChRciG92-ksp4MstEa0QLEB_Ke/s198/Photo%25252017%252520Feb%2525202014%2525205%25253A14%252520pm.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472164.5625" class="alignleft" width="198" height="178" alt=""></a></h4><h4><br></h4>Phacelia tanacetifolia<br> <br>syn. Californian Bluebell<br>Phacelia is hardy and easy-to-grow with pretty, fragrant, lavender-blue flowers with delicate, fern-like foliage. It has a wide range of uses in the organic garden; as an insectary plant it will improve biological control by attracting hoverflies that control aphids; it smothers weeds and the extensive root system will improve the soil structure; the flowers are excellent bee forage. It is also a good cut flower and has a long vase-life with strong stems. <h4>Sow spring in temperate areas; autumn and early winter in subtropical areas. It is unlikely to germinate well in tropical areas.<br> Queen Anne's Lace Organically certified<br>Ammi visnaga<br>Annual cottage garden plant to 1.5m, lacy white flower head; attracts assassin bugs, lacewings, predatory wasps; self-sows; great for orchards and garden edges. Sow spring, autumn (frost tolerant). Suitable for temperate and subtropical areas.<br> <br>Growing Sunflowers</h4><h4><br>Helianthus annuus<br>Sunflowers add joy to a summer garden, attract colourful king parrots and the flower petals are edible and brighten up a salad. The tall plants provide support for climbing beans and are useful as a summer windbreak. Sunflowers are a must for a child's garden, the sheer size of the plants and the way the flowers follow the sun are intriguing for kids. It is a warm season, frost tender annual, usually 2 - 3 m tall. The seeds germinate best at 20 - 25°C; sow spring and summer most areas. The seeds take 10 - 14 days to germinate but are vulnerable to being eaten by birds and rodents. Protect the seed with an upturned pot until the seed has germinated. Sow seed 6 - 10 mm deep in full sun, direct into a garden bed is best. Soil required is fertile, well-drained; with a preferred pH 5.5 - 7.5. Plants do better with consistent moisture. Space rows 60 cm apart with 50 - 60 cm between plants. Protect seedlings from snails, slugs and grasshoppers.<br> Sunflower 'Evening Sun'<br>'Evening Sun' has beautiful, large flowers in autumn shades of orange, russet-bronze, mahogany-red and gold with dark centres. The multiple heads provide an extended bloom period. A great variety for cutting; the plants grow 1.8 - 2.4m tall.<br> <br> Sunflower 'Cosmic Flame'<br>'Cosmic Flame' is a single head, fast maturing sunflower that makes a great addition to the summer flower garden. The flower head is very striking with rich, deep golden yellow petals with a dark, contrasting centre. The plants grow 1.2m tall. This is an F1 hybrid so is not suitable for seed saving.<br> <br> Sunflower 'Sunbird' Organically certified<br>'Sunbird' produces a large, grey-striped sunflower seed which is excellent as human food or poultry forage. Sunbird is both drought tolerant and disease resistant. The plants grow 2 - 2.5m tall.<br> <br> Sweet Alice<br>Lobularia maritima<br>syn. Alyssum<br>Sweet smelling clusters of tiny flowers, ideal as a groundcover, trials in the USA prove this to be an extremely useful insectary plant; no organic garden should be without it! It is frost and drought tolerant. </h4><h4>Sow spring, autumn in warmer areas. Suitable for temperate and subtropical areas.<br> <br> Sweet Alice Benthamii<br>Lobularia maritima ssp benthamii<br>‘Subspecies benthamii’ is a hardier, more vigorous form of alyssum used mainly for its ability to attract beneficial insects to cropping systems. It is sown in the inter-row spaces of vineyards and orchards and as a row between crops in vegetable market gardens. It is easy to grow, drought tolerant, and it will self-sow readily and flower over a long period. Use 1g of seed per 2m2 (2500 seeds/g).</h4><h4><br>Growing Sweetpeas</h4><h4><br>Sweetpeas are a beautiful annual fragrant flower for the cooler times of the year. It is suitable for temperate and subtropical areas. There are both dwarf and climbing types. Usually the climbing types are less prone to mildew and flower over a longer period. Generally if it is the right time to plant peas then same goes for sweetpeas. Sow seed in early temperate and subtropical areas. The best germination soil temperature is between 4.5 - 21°C. Germination will take 6 - 14 days. Seed should be soaked in water 12 - 24 hours before sowing. Sow direct into garden bed to 2 - 2.5 cm deep. Space seeds 8 cm apart along the row. Lightly mulch seed rows to prevent crusting. Choose a position in full sun, sheltered from wind. Soil should be rich, fertile, well drained, with a pH of 6.5 - 7. Lime if necessary several weeks before sowing. Improve the soil before planting by adding compost. Once in flower remove spent flowers and young pods to prolong flowering. Pick early in the morning as a delightful cut flower.<br> Sweetpea 'Old Spice' Organically certified<br>An intensely fragrant heirloom variety, dating back to 1699 from England via Sicily. The flowers are smaller than modern strains but make up for it with a wonderful smell and excellent heat resistance. They bloom with a predominantly purple and crimson bicolour but may include other shades of white, pink, crimson, blue, lavender and cream. It is a climbing variety to 1.5m so a trellis is<br> <br> Sweetpea 'Mammoth Choice' Organically certified<br>'Mammoth Choice' is an early-flowering, highly productive, climbing sweetpea. Large, fragrant blooms in shades of lavender, blue, rose pink, salmon pink, white and burgundy are borne on strong stems. A beautiful addition to any flower garden and wonderful as a cut flower. It withstands heat and drought unusually well. It is a climbing variety 1.5 to 1.8m so a trellis is required.<br> <br> Viola 'Sorbet'<br>Viola cornuta<br>Viola 'Sorbet' is an annual, low growing flower to 20 - 22 cm high; it is an early, profuse bloomer with 3.5 cm flowers in shades of blackberry, blueberry, vanilla, lemon and lavender. Violas are a delightful cool season flower for edging or containers. It is suitable for temperate and subtropical areas. Sow late autumn to early spring. Our top pick as an edible flower; decorative, tasty and nutritious. Flowers are high in vitamin C, leaves in vitamin A. Use the flowers and young leaves in salads. Pick flowers as soon as they are fully open to use in the kitchen. The best germination soil temperature is between 17 - 20°C. Germination will take 4 - 7 days. Sow seed 3 mm deep in seedling trays for later transplanting. Transplant 15 - 20 cm apart. It is frost resistant but drought tender. Dead-head regularly to prolong flowering. Days to flowering: 60 - 70. This is an F1 hybrid so is not suitable for seed saving.<br> <br> Zinnia 'Red Beauty' Organically certified<br>Zinnia elegans<br>Zinnias are hardy, summer flowering annuals from America. ‘Red Beauty’ has very large, 11 cm across, brilliant, dark red, dahlia-like blooms on strong stems 50 - 60 cm long. It is an excellent cut flower. Flowers are long lasting both in the garden and vase. Disease resistant plants.<br>The good Bugs are.<br> <span style="line-height: 1.3em;">If you're a gardener, you are probably already familiar with the green lacewings. Members of the family Chrysopidae are beneficial insects whose larvae prey on soft-bodied pests, especially aphids. For this reason, common lacewings are sometimes called aphid lions.<br></span>Description:<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBQI3lECT2WGR8a7SAqa9XiBdxN-F7d5K-DI1qIUNDGqAFbfOVK7r0F9OOsaAek3IsKKUCYcXu5ljYh6_oAoZt0eYCoGb3UZzYGzuGwkpjKGQCxVLjtg-lJeH_kFsDX_-nsGHsn2r7EO40/s160/Photo%25252025%252520Feb%2525202014%2525208%25253A17%252520am.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBQI3lECT2WGR8a7SAqa9XiBdxN-F7d5K-DI1qIUNDGqAFbfOVK7r0F9OOsaAek3IsKKUCYcXu5ljYh6_oAoZt0eYCoGb3UZzYGzuGwkpjKGQCxVLjtg-lJeH_kFsDX_-nsGHsn2r7EO40/s160/Photo%25252025%252520Feb%2525202014%2525208%25253A17%252520am.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472154.935" class="alignleft" width="160" height="153" alt=""></a>The family name Chrysopidae derives from the Greek chrysos, meaning gold, and ops, meaning eye or face. That's a pretty apt description of the common lacewings, most of which have copper-colored eyes. Lacewings in this group are nearly always green in body and wing color, so you may know them as the green lacewings, another common name. Adult lacewings have lacy wings, as you might have guessed, and they look transparent. If you place a Chrysopid wing under magnification, you should see short hairs along the edges and veins of each wing. Lacewings also have long, filiform antennae, and chewing mouthparts.<br>Lacewing larvae look quite different from the adults. They have elongated, flattened bodies, which resemble tiny alligators. They're often brownish in color. Lacewing larvae also have large, sickle-shaped jaws, well designed for catching and devouring prey.<br> <br><span style="line-height: 1.3em;">Ladybugs, or ladybirds as they are also called, are neither bugs nor birds. Entomologists prefer the name lady beetle, which accurately places these lovable insects in the order Coleoptera. Whatever you call them, these well-known insects belong to the family Coccinellidae.<br></span>Description:<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1V-U49C1Aa3qW9Nu7MhD9Sry2ixsP2stbBYyllq0jerAnozUaDjfPVMZtyoylekWoHRDn4gOFplVfU7Vdclgth0LasKsU6gDQDDaQF9fFGpXtNSIsi6LiYGlchvjQO9v6tj6lhPh3I5X3/s800/Photo%25252025%252520Feb%2525202014%2525208%25253A21%252520am.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1V-U49C1Aa3qW9Nu7MhD9Sry2ixsP2stbBYyllq0jerAnozUaDjfPVMZtyoylekWoHRDn4gOFplVfU7Vdclgth0LasKsU6gDQDDaQF9fFGpXtNSIsi6LiYGlchvjQO9v6tj6lhPh3I5X3/s500/Photo%25252025%252520Feb%2525202014%2525208%25253A21%252520am.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472116.6643" class="alignleft" width="300" height="225" alt=""></a>Ladybugs share a characteristic shape – a dome-shaped back and a flat underside. Ladybug elytra display bold colors and markings, usually red, orange, or yellow with black spots. People often believe the number of spots on a ladybug tells its age, but this is not true. The markings may indicate a species of Coccinellid, although even individuals within a species can vary greatly.<br>Ladybugs walk on short legs, which tuck away under the body. Their short antennae form a slight club at the end. The ladybug's head is almost hidden beneath a large pronotum. Ladybug mouthparts are modified for chewing.<br>Coccinellids became known as ladybirds during the Middle Ages. The term "lady" references the Virgin Mary, who was often depicted in a red cloak. The 7-spot ladybird (Coccinella 7-punctata) is said to represent the Virgin's seven joys and seven sorrows.<br> <br> <br><span style="line-height: 1.3em;">Assassin bugs get their name from their predatory habits. Gardeners consider them beneficial insects, because their voracious appetites for other bugs keeps pests under control.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqzKCh3QYFOWixSWRoKuAJ8d6GnPpiwTFlJL75_HgRLxOFDiKIY2sE1cbLpmvMdvhiR9FQ7jRjh_CxhlGD6ekTvrGoVS1rok2QTpLkQeahNMWS_ZCSXTxrjTEtZXAmRNNyQDjACywTcLg/s789/Photo%25252030%252520May%2525202005%2525205%25253A37%252520am.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkqzKCh3QYFOWixSWRoKuAJ8d6GnPpiwTFlJL75_HgRLxOFDiKIY2sE1cbLpmvMdvhiR9FQ7jRjh_CxhlGD6ekTvrGoVS1rok2QTpLkQeahNMWS_ZCSXTxrjTEtZXAmRNNyQDjACywTcLg/s500/Photo%25252030%252520May%2525202005%2525205%25253A37%252520am.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472134.9402" class="alignleft" width="205" height="300" alt=""></a>Description:<br>Assassin bugs use piercing, sucking mouthparts to feed, and have long, slender antennae. A short, three-segmented beak distinguishes Reduviids from other true bugs, which generally have beaks with four segments. Their heads are often tapered behind the eyes, so they look like they have a long neck.<br>Reduviids vary in size, from just a few millimeters in length to over three centimeters. Some assassin bugs seem rather bland in brown or black, while others sport elaborate markings and brighter colors. The front legs of assassin bugs are designed for catching prey.<br>When threatened, assassin bugs may inflict a painful bite, so be careful handling them.<br> <br><span style="line-height: 1.3em;">With its large eyes and swiveling head, the mantid entertains and fascinates us. Most people call members of the suborder Mantodea praying mantises, referring to their prayer-like posture when sitting. Mantis is a Greek word meaning prophet or soothsayer.<br></span>Description:<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijmVfUyzYNxDCJcjQyyIEe7Kchyloo2hpuR_Xv_8r7jGbRCjlpebMx79O7BnhYojJm9nnRwXXmYP0wrMatM5jME7rIGPfnxzo0dx07BmybraeoW5oTLxjedGVc9vEB_5tXe9kmH9PM3mf4/s600/Photo%25252025%252520Feb%2525202014%2525208%25253A30%252520am.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijmVfUyzYNxDCJcjQyyIEe7Kchyloo2hpuR_Xv_8r7jGbRCjlpebMx79O7BnhYojJm9nnRwXXmYP0wrMatM5jME7rIGPfnxzo0dx07BmybraeoW5oTLxjedGVc9vEB_5tXe9kmH9PM3mf4/s500/Photo%25252025%252520Feb%2525202014%2525208%25253A30%252520am.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472155.4622" class="alignleft" width="353" height="264" alt=""></a>At maturity, most mantids are large insects of 5-8 centimeters in length. Like all members of the order Dictyoptera, mantids have leathery forewings that fold over their abdomens when at rest. Mantids move slowly, and prefer walking among the branches and leaves of plants to flying from place to place.<br>The mantid's triangular head can rotate and swivel, even allowing it to look over its "shoulder", which is a unique ability in the insect world. Two large compound eyes and up to three ocelli between them help the mantid navigate its world. The first pair of legs, held distinctively forward, allow the mantid to catch and grasp insects and other prey.<br>Species in North America are typically green or brown in color. In tropical areas, mantid species come in a variety of colors, sometimes mimicking flowers.<br> <br><span style="font-weight: normal;">Turn over a rock or log, and you'll see dark, shiny beetles running for cover – ground beetles. This diverse group of predators makes the top 10 list of beneficial garden insects. Though hidden by day, at night the Carabids hunt and feed on some of our worst garden pests.</span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br></span><span style="font-weight: normal;">Description:</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheovyWBs4A3Ck9bYGIPDiT7wJD-mBfUPfdMcWP0WXIcIeEihIcvJzLC7K5wHyDxAQmOlNZLO2eLV81bKD5Je_H5rWC2I-IFT2_VvcBUekcP32fjnSWcRuCiKKwbfpKd8VxRsNDbSKA1uJp/s920/Photo%25252025%252520Mar%2525202012%25252010%25253A59%252520am.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheovyWBs4A3Ck9bYGIPDiT7wJD-mBfUPfdMcWP0WXIcIeEihIcvJzLC7K5wHyDxAQmOlNZLO2eLV81bKD5Je_H5rWC2I-IFT2_VvcBUekcP32fjnSWcRuCiKKwbfpKd8VxRsNDbSKA1uJp/s500/Photo%25252025%252520Mar%2525202012%25252010%25253A59%252520am.jpg" id="blogsy-1393301472149.6345" class="alignleft" width="348" height="248" alt=""></a> <span style="font-weight: normal;"><br></span><span style="font-weight: normal;">The best way to get to know the ground beetles is to observe some up close. Since most are nocturnal, you can usually find them hiding under boards or stepping stones during the day. Try using a pitfall trap to collect a few, and check for the telltale Carabid characteristics.<br></span><span style="font-weight: normal;">Most ground beetles are black and shiny, though some display metallic colors. In many Carabids, the elytra are grooved. Look at a ground beetle's hind legs, and you'll notice the first leg segments (the hips) extend backwards over the first abdominal segment.<br></span><span style="font-weight: normal;">Threadlike antennae emerge from between the eyes and the jaws of the ground beetle. The pronotum is always wider then the area of the head where the eyes are present.<br></span> <br> </h4><p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787</a></div>propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-86195223591620075132013-09-29T17:29:00.001-07:002013-09-30T07:56:31.220-07:00Echium or pride of Madira<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgAJx2Ek7DUm-4aoXV1X0LhwycvTj4Hri1wJvj3PJGDZ_qI4rOEKikBP3lpQCLa7xCscoU6xcyu9mqxUnj0yxa7qz8xsbyP08KBxP2hlNKYFRUUKfLzIN5LNjLc4Yy9XyRI0rzXx6Dy7Ax/s400/2010%2525202%25253A48%252520AM.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgAJx2Ek7DUm-4aoXV1X0LhwycvTj4Hri1wJvj3PJGDZ_qI4rOEKikBP3lpQCLa7xCscoU6xcyu9mqxUnj0yxa7qz8xsbyP08KBxP2hlNKYFRUUKfLzIN5LNjLc4Yy9XyRI0rzXx6Dy7Ax/s400/2010%2525202%25253A48%252520AM.jpg" id="blogsy-1380552393111.3782" class="alignright" alt="" width="150" height="96"></a></div>
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<h5> <br>
Perennial<br>
Light: Full Sun<br>
Height: 5 feet to 8 feet<br>
Width: 5 feet to 6 feet<br>
Bloom Color: Blue<br>
Leaf Color: Green, Silvery<br>
Special Features: All or parts of this plant are poisonous, Not North American native<br>
Shape: Rounded<br>
Fertilizer: Sea sol Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food<br>
Want to know where Pride of Madeira will thrive in your house or garden? A Plant Sensor will give you a plant's-eye view of your environment to measure soil, sunlight, temperature and humidity.<br>
<br>
Plant Care</h5>
<h5><br>
Planting:<br>
Sow seeds of annuals species in spring; sow perennial and biennial species in summer. Root semi-ripe cuttings of shrubby perennials in midsummer.</h5>
<h5><br>
Plant Growth:<br>
Echium grows best with full sun, and thrives in areas with hot summers. Species are drought tolerant, but cannot withstand temperatures below 30ºF. Where hardy, grow Echium in an annual, mixed, or herbaceous border. They also make good container plants. Elsewhere, raise Echium indoors.</h5>
<h5><br>
Blooming:<br>
Flowers are borne from spring to summer. They attract bees, butterflies, and birds.<br>
Soil that is too rich will hinder flower formation.<br>
Soil and Irrigation:<br>
Outdoors, Echium does well with poor, dry soils. For indoor plants, use a standard soil-based potting mix. Water freely during the growing season; water sparingly in winter.</h5>
<h5><br>
Pruning:<br>
Plants should be cut back hard before winter.<br>
Pests:<br>
Slugs are known to attack young growth. Other pests include whiteflies and spider mites.</h5>
<p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787</a></div>propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-11898139878738911752013-09-29T17:29:00.000-07:002013-09-30T07:46:15.400-07:00Echium or pride of Madira<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: right;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgAJx2Ek7DUm-4aoXV1X0LhwycvTj4Hri1wJvj3PJGDZ_qI4rOEKikBP3lpQCLa7xCscoU6xcyu9mqxUnj0yxa7qz8xsbyP08KBxP2hlNKYFRUUKfLzIN5LNjLc4Yy9XyRI0rzXx6Dy7Ax/s400/2010%2525202%25253A48%252520AM.jpg" target="_blank" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgAJx2Ek7DUm-4aoXV1X0LhwycvTj4Hri1wJvj3PJGDZ_qI4rOEKikBP3lpQCLa7xCscoU6xcyu9mqxUnj0yxa7qz8xsbyP08KBxP2hlNKYFRUUKfLzIN5LNjLc4Yy9XyRI0rzXx6Dy7Ax/s400/2010%2525202%25253A48%252520AM.jpg" id="blogsy-1380552374010.7026" class="alignright" alt="" width="150" height="96"></a></div>
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<h5> <br>
Perennial<br>
Light: Full Sun<br>
Height: 5 feet to 8 feet<br>
Width: 5 feet to 6 feet<br>
Zones: 10a to 11b<br>
Bloom Color: Blue<br>
Leaf Color: Green, Silvery<br>
Special Features: All or parts of this plant are poisonous, Not North American native<br>
Shape: Rounded<br>
Fertilizer: Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food<br>
Want to know where Pride of Madeira will thrive in your house or garden? The EasyBloom Plant Sensor will give you a plant's-eye view of your environment to measure soil, sunlight, temperature and humidity.<br>
<br>
Plant Care</h5>
<h5><br>
Planting:<br>
Sow seeds of annuals species in spring; sow perennial and biennial species in summer. Root semi-ripe cuttings of shrubby perennials in midsummer.</h5>
<h5><br>
Plant Growth:<br>
Echium grows best with full sun, and thrives in areas with hot summers. Species are drought tolerant, but cannot withstand temperatures below 30ºF. Where hardy, grow Echium in an annual, mixed, or herbaceous border. They also make good container plants. Elsewhere, raise Echium indoors.</h5>
<h5><br>
Blooming:<br>
Flowers are borne from spring to summer. They attract bees, butterflies, and birds.<br>
Soil that is too rich will hinder flower formation.<br>
Soil and Irrigation:<br>
Outdoors, Echium does well with poor, dry soils. For indoor plants, use a standard soil-based potting mix. Water freely during the growing season; water sparingly in winter.</h5>
<h5><br>
Pruning:<br>
Plants should be cut back hard before winter.<br>
Pests:<br>
Slugs are known to attack young growth. Other pests include whiteflies and spider mites.</h5>
<p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787</a></div>propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-79345313619417525102013-09-28T17:22:00.001-07:002013-09-28T17:22:53.015-07:00 Growing Almond Trees<p> – Information On The Care Of Almond Trees</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Cultivated as early as 4,000 B.C., almonds are native to central and southwest Asia and were introduced to California in the 1840’s. Almonds (Prunus dolcis) are prized for use in candies, baked goods, and confections and for the oil processed from the nut. These stone fruits from growing almond trees are also reputed to aid in a number of physical ills and are used in folk remedies for everything from cancer treatment to corns to ulcers.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>How to Grow an Almond Tree</p>
<p> </p>
<p>When growing almond trees, it is helpful to know that the trees do not tolerate wet soil and are extremely susceptible to spring frost. They thrive in mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers in full sun. If your region does not fall within these parameters, it is unlikely an almond tree will set fruit for you.</p>
<p>Additionally, very few varieties of almond tree are self fertile and, therefore, need cross pollination for fruit production. So, you will need to plant at least two trees. If space is at a premium, you can even plant two in the same hole, wherein the trees will grow together and intertwine, allowing the flowers to cross pollinate.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Almond trees are deep rooted and should be planted in deep, fertile and well draining sandy loam. Almond trees should be planted 19-26 feet apart and irrigated despite the fact that the trees are drought tolerant. An application of nitrogen and organic fertilizer will aid in growth. These trees have high nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) requirements.</p>
<p>To plant the almond tree, dig a hole wider than deep and make sure the roots fit easily into the depth of the hole, then water in deeply. You may need to stake the little tree if you live in a windy area, but remove the stakes after a year or so to allow the tree proper growth.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Care of Almond Trees</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Almond tree care varies according to the season. In the winter or dormant season, the growing almond trees should be pruned (December/January) to promote growth, allow light, and remove any dead or diseased limbs or suckers. Clean the area of debris around the tree to eliminate overwintering navel orange worms and spray with dormant oil to kill peach twig borer, San Jose scale and mite eggs.</p>
<p>During the spring bloom season, care of almond trees should include fertilization of mature trees with urea or manure, watered in or small doses of nitrogen for young trees. Drip irrigation should be initiated daily with the trees needing 2-3 inches of water. If the tree is planted in shallow or sandy soil, it will need more water.</p>
<p>During the summer, continue to irrigate and fertilize at the same rate as the spring application up until harvest.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Harvesting Almond Tree Fruit</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The harvesting of almond tree fruit occurs after the hulls split and the shell becomes dry and brown in color. Almonds need 180-240 days for nuts to mature wherein the nut (embryo and shell) has dried to minimum moisture content.</p>
<p>To harvest the almonds, shake the tree, then separate the hulls from the nut. Freeze your almond nuts for 1-2 weeks to kill any residual worms and then store in plastic bags.</p>
<p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787</a></div>propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-2459154636505363942013-09-28T14:29:00.000-07:002013-09-28T14:50:14.033-07:00Plants And Potassium<h1></h1>
<h1><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Using Potassium And Potassium Deficiency Plants</span></font></h1>
<h4><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The effects of potassium on plants is well known in that it improves how well a plant grows and produces but exactly why and how is not known. As a gardener, you do not need to know the why and how in order to be hurt by a potassium deficiency in plants. Keep reading to learn more about how potassium affects the plants in your garden and how to correct a potassium deficiency.</span></font></h4>
<h4><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
</span></font></h4>
<h1><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Effects Of Potassium On Plants</span></font></h1>
<h4><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Potassium is important to plant growth and development. Potassium helps:<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Plants grow faster<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Use water better and be more drought resistant<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Fight off disease<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Resist pests<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Grow stronger<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Produce more crops<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">With all plants, potassium assists all functions within the plant. When a plant has enough potassium, it will simply be a better overall plant.<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Signs Of Potassium Deficiency In Plants<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Potassium deficiency in plants will cause a plant to perform more poorly overall than it should. Because of this reason, it can be difficult to see specific signs of potassium deficiency in plants.<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">When severe potassium deficiency happens, you may be able to see some signs in the leaves. The leaves, especially older leaves, may have brown spots, yellow edges, yellow veins or brown veins.</span></font></h4>
<h4><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
</span></font></h4>
<h1><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">What Is In Potassium Fertiliser</span></font></h1>
<h4><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Potassium fertilizer is sometimes called potash fertilizer. This is because potassium fertilizers often contain a substance called potash. Potash is a naturally occurring substance that occurs when wood is burned away or can be found in mines and the ocean.<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">While potash is technically a naturally occurring substance, only certain kinds of potassium fertilizers containing potash are considered organic.<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Some sources refer to high potassium fertilizer. This is simply a fertilizer that is exclusively potassium or has a high K value.d</span></font></h4>
<h4><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">If you wish to add potassium to your soil at home, you can do so in several ways without having to use potash or other commercial potassium fertilizer. Compost made primarily from food byproducts is an excellent source of potassium. In particular, banana peels are very high in potassium.<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Wood ash can also be used, but make sure that you apply wood ash only lightly as too much can burn your plants.</span></font></h4>
<h4><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Greensand, which is available from most nurseries, will also add potassium to you garden.<br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Because potassium deficiency in plants can be hard to spot through looking at the plant, it is always a good idea to have your soil tested before adding more potassium.</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>
</span></font><font size="5"><span style="line-height: 28px; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"> </span></font></h4>
<p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787</a></div>propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-88805467869903597372013-08-08T14:38:00.001-07:002013-08-08T14:38:57.935-07:00Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services<h2> Tree Disease & Fungus Treatment Services</h2>
<p>Tree disease diagnosis and tree protection treatment begins with a comprehensive inspection of your landscape by one of Zeal Property Maintenance industry-certified arborists. During a consultation, your arborist will be able to determine the overall health of the landscape, identify specific tree diseases, and recommend any needed tree services to preserve the vitality of your property. Zeal Property Maintenance experience, expertise and state-of-the-art equipment enable us to quickly diagnose tree diseases and recommend specific treatments for tree protection and vitality.</p>
<p> </p>
<h2>Treatment for Tree Diseases</h2>
<p> </p>
<p>Tree service programs designed to maximize the health and beauty of your landscape need to take into account the specific conditions of the trees at your home. Tree disease treatment is most effective when the type of tree, disease characteristics and your personal preferences are all taken into consideration.</p>
<p>Zeal Property Maintenance foliar tree disease treatments are designed to protect your valuable evergreen and deciduous ornamentals from damage due to foliar tree diseases.</p>
<p>Most of these are caused by fungi that are prevalent during spring when the weather is rainy. Treatments provide a protective barrier on the leaf or needle surface that will prevent the germination and growth of spores that cause tree diseases.</p>
<h2>Common Tree Diseases and Treatments</h2>
<p> </p>
<p>Professional tree disease treatments can help protect your landscape investment and enhance your property value. Our arborists are experienced tree doctors who diagnose and treat many types of trees, including pine, elm, dogwood, maple tree varieties, cherry, ash, willow, magnolia and many others. Below are some of the most common tree diseases and their treatments:</p>
<h2>Dutch Elm Tree Disease</h2>
<p> </p>
<p>Dutch Elm Disease has felled feature elm trees on many northeastern landscapes. As a preventive measure, specimen elm trees (Ulmus americana) can be successfully trunk injected during the spring/summer with a treatment that will prevent the development of the Dutch Elm Disease fungus for up to three years. However, this tree disease treatment is not always effective against previously infected trees.</p>
<h2>Fruit Tree Diseases</h2>
<p>There are specific fungal infections, as well as insect and mite activity that commonly affect orchard trees and which may impact the production of edible fruit. Zeal Property Maintenance fruit tree disease treatments follow a protocol developed by several leading universities, utilizing the minimum number of treatments required to facilitate a productive harvest.</p>
<h2>Sycamore Anthracnose</h2>
<p> </p>
<p>Sycamore Anthracnose is a common tree disease that results in extensive defoliation, shoot dieback, and twig death of your sycamore trees especially when extended periods of wet weather occur in the spring. Because it is very difficult to control through conventional disease treatments, Zeal uses a macroinfusion system that will prevent infection of your sycamore specimens for two years.</p>
<p>Zeal can also help prevent and treat other common tree diseases including dogwood anthracnose, apple scab, cedar apple rust and more.</p>
<p>Call 1300882787. today for a complimentary consultation with Zeal Property Maintenance fully trained professionals and certified arborists</p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787</a></div>propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-80424712691382283182013-08-07T15:35:00.001-07:002013-08-07T15:35:31.828-07:00Top dressing for your lawn at the beginning of the growing season <h2> Why Topdress?</h2>
<address><br>
The main reason for topdressing is to level the lawn or build it up to the desired level. Topdressing fills holes or low spots and encourages the grass to spread by giving it a medium to grow in.</address>
<address><br>
<h2>Tools</h2>Successful topdressing requires a few tools and some suitable soil. A good wheelbarrow with an inflatable tyre will make wheeling the soil easier. For shoveling and spreading the soil, an aluminium shovel is priceless. A small level-lawn is also a worthwhile investment for leveling and rubbing the soil in.<br>
Soil selection is up to you but it is best to use a soil that is consistent with the soil that the lawn is growing in. This is usually sandy type loam. I prefer use a clean sandy loam rather than some of the lawn topdressing mixes available today which may claim to contain organic matter and fertiliser. My reasons for this are that a clean soil is easier to work with, resulting in a better looking finished job and you can make more money by fertilizing your client's lawns at a later date. It is up to you as a professional lawn contractors to determine the required amount of soil that is needed to complete the job.</address>
<address><br>
<h2>Preparation</h2>Before you actually spread the soil, make sure the grass is actively growing. Don't top dress dormant grass. You will damage it, if not kill it. A good idea is to give the lawn a fertilize a couple of weeks before topdressing, this will help the grass push through the soil quickly. Also, mow the lawn the day before you do the job. Long grass takes more soil to cover properly and the thicker the soil layer, the harder it is for the grass to emerge.</address>
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<h2>Doing the Job</h2>Alright, you've fertilized, you've cut the lawn, purchased the soil and you are ready to go, but it looks like rain! DON'T DO IT! Why? Besides making a big mess, wet soil does not rub in well and can sometimes dry like a hard crust on top of the grass, making it very difficult for the grass to grow through.<br>
Okay, now the sun is out, lets get into it. Start by spreading an even layer of soil over the lawn covering the entire area. I've seen many people topdress their lawns but only covering it roughly. If you are going to the trouble, at least make sure you do it right.</address>
<address><br>
Once the lawn is completely covered, don't rush in to level it off, give it a couple of hours to dry first. This will allow you to rub in the soil more effectively and you will be able to fill up holes rather than smoothing wet soil over the top. This couple of hours will allow you to go and mow another lawn or work out what to do with any soil you have left over.</address>
<address><br>
Once the soil is dry, start to rub it in with the level-lawn. This can be done in any direction, just as long as you go over the whole lawn. Pick up any excess with a shovel and make sure the job is as neat as possible. Leave the site clean and tidy. Sweep up any soil off paths and drives as clients really appreciate it and it makes you look more professional. Don't water the lawns for a couple of days. This will let the grass punch through the soil.</address>
<h5> </h5><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787</a></div>propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-17524328698544368212013-08-04T21:52:00.000-07:002013-08-04T22:00:39.592-07:00Pruning citrus trees sydney<p> </p>
<p>Fertilising and Pruning</p>
<p>Fertilising</p>
<p>Citrus are high feeders and love fertiliser. In many books you will read, fertilise your citrus twice a year. We have a different opinion. “A little bit - often” is our philosophy. Therefore feed your citrus at least four times per year. Timing is not critical, if you haven’t feed your tree for a while, start now. There are many different commercial citrus fertilisers on the market. We generally don’t recommend these fertilisers as their instructions are often difficult to comprehend,</p>
<p>eg. X kilograms per age of tree. </p>
<p>There is nothing quite like, good old fashioned blood and bone or well rotted chicken manure or cow manure or ‘Organic Life’ or ‘Dynamic Lifter’. Any of these are fine and it’s a good idea to alternate between them. Water your tree well; remove any mulch from around the tree. Spread the fertiliser evenly around the soil underneath the</p>
<p>canopy, but not directly against the trunk. The amount varies, depending on which fertiliser you choose. Don’t be afraid, you can use up to half a bucket, per tree of organic fertiliser. Generally the organic fertilisers are less harmful if you accidentally overfeed. When all else fails, read the instructions on the bag. There is no need to cultivate the fertiliser into the soil as this will only cause damage to the surface roots. Water in well and then replace the mulch. </p>
<p>Citrus in pots also require regular feeding. Fertilise at least four times per year. Either ‘Organic Life’ or ‘Dynamic Lifter’ is great; put a light covering over the entire surface of the pot. If these products are a little too smelly, you can use ‘Osmocote’ or ‘Greenjacket’ slow release fertilisers.</p>
<p>Pruning</p>
<p>Citrus unlike many other fruit trees don’t require annual pruning to aid in fruit production. They can be happily left for</p>
<p>many years unpruned and will still produce an abundance of fruit. </p>
<p>Alternatively, citrus can be pruned into any shape that is desired. Citrus are often trained and pruned into Standards, for a formal topiary effect. Planting citrus close together and regular pruning can form a lovely dense fruiting hedge. Citrus are very adaptable and can be trained and pruned into many shapes only limited by your imagination. </p>
<p>Australian Cumquat pruned as a Standard</p>
<p>Espaliered Citrus are becoming very trendy for the smaller gardens or balconies. An espalier is when the citrus is pruned and shaped flat against a wall or lattice. All varieties of citrus are suitable and it is simply a case of tying the new growth back against the wall, fence or lattice and pruning off, any forward growth that can’t be tied back, creating a flat two dimensional plant. This saves space, creates a beautiful green wall and the citrus still produce an abundance of fruit.</p>
<p>Kaffir Lime trained as an espalier</p>
<p>Old, neglected, citrus can be resurrected by a heavy rejuvenation prune. If the tree is old and ugly and hasn’t fruited well for years attack it with a chain saw, taking it right back to the main fork. This sounds drastic, but the tree was useless as it was, so you have nothing to lose. As it starts to re shoot, fertilise well and water regularly. Most often the tree with comeback better than ever and continue producing fruit for many more years.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p class="page" title="Page 1"> <div class="section"> <div class="layoutArea"> <div class="column"> <p><span style="font-size: 28.000000pt; font-family: 'TrebuchetMS'; font-weight: 700">Basic Deciduous Fruit Tree Pruningfor the Small </span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 11.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'">For the home orchard, pruning to the vase system is probably the simplest method. If your treeshave been cut back in the nursery, a basic framework may have already been established. Theaim is to select future leaders (main structural limbs) from uniformly spaced shoots of similardiameter (see Figure 1A). The selected leaders should be pruned to about the same height fromthe ground to outside buds. Avoid selecting branches for leaders with narrow crotch angles (lessthan 30 degrees), as they are likely to split under crop load later. If the nursery tree has not beencut back, it will need to be cut off at about 60 cm above ground level and allowed to shoot andgrow on for a year before selecting the leaders</span></p>
</p></div><div class="layoutArea"><div class="column"> <p><span style="font-size: 9.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'">Crotch angle</span></p></div>
</div>
<p class="layoutArea"> <div class="column"> <ol>
<li style="font-size: 11.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'"> <p><span style="font-size: 11pt; ">Leave the weakest leader the longest <img src="file:///page1image28300" alt="page1image28300" width="5.635986" height="0.516998">this will encourage it to strengthen. This also means thestrongest leader should be pruned the shortest, to weaken it.</span></p>
</li>
<li style="font-size: 11.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'">
<p><span style="font-size: 11pt; ">Always prune the leaders to an outside bud.</span></p>
</li>
<li style="font-size: 11.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'">
<p><span style="font-size: 11pt; ">Strong growth should be removed if it is heading into the centre of the tree or growing towardsanother leader. The only strong growth to be encouraged should be heading away from thecentre of the tree and in the lower half of the tree.</span></p>
</li>
<li style="font-size: 11.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'">
<p><span style="font-size: 11pt; ">All fruiting arms/side shoots should not grow to be more than one-third the diameter of the limbthey are attached to, at the junction. Growth greater than this ‘one-third’ rule should be removedbefore it takes over from the main limb.</span></p>
</li>
<li style="font-size: 11.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'">
<p><span style="font-size: 11pt; ">All fruiting arms/side shoots should decrease in diameter (strength); the higher in the tree theyare located.</span></p>
</li>
<li style="font-size: 11.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'">
<p><span style="font-size: 11pt; ">Vigorous upright growth (water shoots) growing in the centre of the tree should be removed.These shoots are best removed in the summer before their diameter is such that it requires alarge pruning cut.</span></p>
</li>
<li style="font-size: 11.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'">
<p><span style="font-size: 11pt; ">Prune upright shoots to horizontal side laterals if you wish to weaken their growth.</span></p>
</li>
<li style="font-size: 11.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'">
<p><span style="font-size: 11pt; ">Prune off narrow (weak) crotch angled growth.</span></p>
</li>
<li style="font-size: 11.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'">
<p><span style="font-size: 11pt; ">Remove dead or diseased wood and burn.</span></p>
</li>
<li style="font-size: 11.000000pt; font-family: 'ArialMT'">
<p><span style="font-size: 11pt; ">Remove crowded and crossed over branches and laterals. </span></p>
</li>
</ol> </p> </div> </div> </div><table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="border" style="padding: 1px; border: 1px solid rgb(214, 214, 214); font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><tbody></tbody></table>
<p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787</a></div>propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-50921967119964387362012-04-19T02:14:00.002-07:002012-09-21T00:02:13.933-07:00Cuttings<center><img src="http://www.sgaonline.org.au/images/pics/propagation/propagation1.jpg" border="0" alt="" hspace="0" vspace="10" style="padding-top: 5px; padding-right: 5px; padding-bottom: 5px; padding-left: 5px; display: block; margin-top: 20px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 20px; margin-left: auto; border-top-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-bottom-style: none; border-left-style: none; border-width: initial; border-color: initial; max-width: 98%; height: auto !important; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.496094) 0px 0px 2px; text-align: center; "></center><p style="color: rgb(42, 41, 41); margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; ">How often do we see a lovely shrub or perennial in a friend’s garden and just wish we had one like it? And with a little skill, ingenuity AND your friend’s permission, there’s no reason why you can’t have one or more the same. A word of caution here though, to avoid spreading weeds make sure that you don’t propagate anything you can’t identify, and ALWAYS ask permission. It is very frustrating for proud gardeners with attractive shrubs tumbling over their garden fence to find pieces constantly being ‘ripped’ off by passing walkers. The plant will suffer from needless brutalisation and the ‘cuttings’ may not actually survive the damage of being torn from the parent plant. So just ask!</p>
<span></span><br/><br/><strong>Cuttings</strong><br/><br/>A cutting is the term we use for lengths of plant material being used specifically to propagate new plants. In contrast to growing plants from seed, where we may get plants that are slightly different from what we expected, cuttings will always be clones of the parent plant from which the cutting was taken. So a camellia cutting from a plant with a pink and white flower will produce another identical camellia with a pink and white flower. If you were to take the seed from that same parent camellia you would not be guaranteed to get a camellia with a pink and white flower. Nature has a tendency to play games when growing from seed, all in the name of maintaining a healthy gene pool, of course!<br/><br/><strong>Softwood, Semi-hardwood and Hardwood Cuttings</strong><br/><br/>These terms relate to the period in the growing cycle when the cutting is taken.<br/><br/><strong>Softwood Cuttings</strong> are generally taken in spring and early summer when the plant is putting on its new growth and there are a lot of growth hormones in the plant system. Soft wood cuttings usually strike (start to grow roots) relatively quickly. Chose slightly firmer pieces of plant material and avoid very soft sappy growth. Softwood cuttings generally benefit from the addition of some heat (mentioned further on).<br/><br/><strong>Semi-hardwood Cuttings</strong> are taken mid- summer after flowering when the plant is putting on new growth and starting to harden. They strike quickly and give good results without the need for additional heat.<br/><br/><strong>Hardwood Cuttings</strong> are generally taken at the end of summer and take longer to strike than those taken earlier in the season. However as this period coincides with the garden’s Autumn pruning, particularly of perennials, it is easy to source cutting materials. And with so much cutting material available, even if some fail, most will be ready to plant the following spring.<br/><br/><center><img src="http://www.sgaonline.org.au/images/pics/propagation/propagation2.jpg" border="0" alt="" hspace="0" vspace="10" style="padding-top: 5px; padding-right: 5px; padding-bottom: 5px; padding-left: 5px; display: block; margin-top: 20px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 20px; margin-left: auto; border-top-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-bottom-style: none; border-left-style: none; border-width: initial; border-color: initial; max-width: 98%; height: auto !important; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.496094) 0px 0px 2px; text-align: center; "></center><p style="color: rgb(42, 41, 41); margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; "><strong>Types of Plants suitable for Cuttings</strong></p>
All perennial and shrubby plants provide excellent potential for cuttings. The most successful plant material for cuttings comes from the ‘square’ stemmed plants eg from the <em>Laminaceae</em> family. This includes salvias, mint, rosemary and many other herbs. Many of the perennials in the daisy family, like Federation Daisies, also do well from cuttings however other daisy plants, like Echinacea sps, are best propagated from root division.<br/><br/><strong>Taking cuttings</strong><br/><br/>The preferred cutting length is about 10cm to 12cm with at least 2 to 3 nodes on each cutting. The lower cut should be on an angle just beneath the first node. You can also ‘nick’ the area just beneath the lower node taking care not to damage the node itself. This node will be below the soil surface and this is where the root zone will develop.<br/><br/>The top cut should be made above the next node (or the one above). The entire cutting length should contain 2 or 3 nodes in total. These upper nodes will be where the leaves of the new plant will shoot. Take care not to damage any of the nodes along the cutting length. Plant nodes have the amazing ability to produce either roots or leaves depending on whether they are above or below the soil level which is why cuttings are so effective.<br/><br/><center><img src="http://www.sgaonline.org.au/images/pics/propagation/propagation3.jpg" border="0" alt="" hspace="0" vspace="10" style="padding-top: 5px; padding-right: 5px; padding-bottom: 5px; padding-left: 5px; display: block; margin-top: 20px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 20px; margin-left: auto; border-top-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-bottom-style: none; border-left-style: none; border-width: initial; border-color: initial; max-width: 98%; height: auto !important; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.496094) 0px 0px 2px; text-align: center; "></center><p style="color: rgb(42, 41, 41); margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; ">The lower node may be dipped in a ‘rooting hormone’ if desired although if a lower strike rate is acceptable this is not essential. For a natural rooting hormone you may try dipping the cutting in honey.<br>
Reputably pieces of willow (an introduced species) soaked in water for about 10 days produce an excellent rooting hormone. This may be why they have been so successful at colonising our river banks and become serious environmental weeds!! If using this willow method, dispose of the willow pieces carefully so as not to increase their weedy spread. And yes, they probably will be still viable even after 10days in a bucket of water!<br>
Avoid taking cutting from any plant when it is in flower as these cuttings will have less potential for success.<br>
If the cutting has broad-leaf leaves, eg feijoa plants remove all except the top two leaves. If the top two leaves are very large, they can be cut in half laterally so the cutting doesn’t lose too much moisture through the leaves.<br>
If the cuttings have multiple narrow small leaves, eg lavender and rosemary, remove the leaves on the lower 2/3rds of the cutting. The multiple nodes left all have the potential to produce roots when they strike.</p>
<center><img src="http://www.sgaonline.org.au/images/pics/propagation/propagation4.jpg" border="0" alt="" hspace="0" vspace="10" style="padding-top: 5px; padding-right: 5px; padding-bottom: 5px; padding-left: 5px; display: block; margin-top: 20px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 20px; margin-left: auto; border-top-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-bottom-style: none; border-left-style: none; border-width: initial; border-color: initial; max-width: 98%; height: auto !important; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.496094) 0px 0px 2px; text-align: center; "></center><p style="color: rgb(42, 41, 41); margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; "><strong>Growing Medium</strong></p>
Cuttings do best in a free draining mixture so that they don’t rot. It is best to put lots of cuttings in the same pot rather than single cuttings in many post. The warmth and humidity of having them all clustered together will help them to strike. To increase the warmth and humidity, and maintain heat overnight, if possible cover the pot with a clear plastic ‘hood’ or the end of a polystyrene bottle. If doing this, keep the pot out of direct sunlight so that the air inside in the pot doesn’t heat up too much and ‘cook’ the cuttings. Mist the cuttings regularly to help regulate the temperature and keep a moist environment.<br/><br/><strong>Potting up</strong><br/><br/>Leave the cuttings in the pot long enough for them to establish strong root systems. Remove any cuttings that start to look like they have failed so that you don’t allow rots and fungal problems to enter the pot. They will usually look weak, brown off and begin to rot at the base.<br>
You can generally tell when the cutting has taken if it starts to put on new leaves and to grow. However be patient as the roots may take longer to develop. Continue to water the cuttings until you are ready to pot up.<br>
You can test for roots by gently rocking the cutting. If you feel no resistance, then the roots have probably not yet developed.<br>
When you think the cuttings are ready to pot up, tip the pot gently upside down and remove all of the contents together. Lay on a piece of newspaper and gently start to disentangle the roots. It is important to minimise the damage to these young roots as the vigour of the new plants depends on a strong root system.<br/><br/>Pot the young cuttings into small pots with a good quality potting mix. Water in with a weak solution of seaweed fertiliser or worm leachate tea. Put the cuttings in a sheltered spot to ‘harden off’ before gradually introducing them to a more open environment.<br/><br/>Once the root mass of the cutting starts to fill its new pot, either pot on again or, if the conditions are suitable, plant into a prepared garden bed. And enjoy the fruits of your labour for years to come!<br/><br/><p style="color: rgb(42, 41, 41); margin-top: 1em; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 0px; padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; "><img src="http://www.sgaonline.org.au/images/pics//growingfromseed/seeds6.jpg" border="0" alt="" hspace="10" vspace="10" align="right" style="padding-top: 5px; padding-right: 5px; padding-bottom: 5px; padding-left: 5px; display: block; margin-top: 20px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 20px; margin-left: auto; border-top-style: none; border-right-style: none; border-bottom-style: none; border-left-style: none; border-width: initial; border-color: initial; max-width: 98%; height: auto !important; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.496094) 0px 0px 2px; text-align: center; ">Many new plant cultivars that have been developed over the past decade may be subject to Plant Breeders Rights (PBR). PBR is effectively a plant patent. You may propagate these plants for your own use but NOT for resale unless you pay a royalty to the PBR holder. If in doubt, check the original plant label or seed packet or look for the PBR symbol.</p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787</a></div>propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-35730562809481018922011-08-18T02:35:00.001-07:002011-08-18T02:35:13.531-07:00PotassiumIt is well-known that Australian soils are low in phosphorus. What is not so well-known is that many of our soils are also low in potassium. As a result, the animal manures that we increasingly use on our gardens in place of chemical fertilisers are also low in potassium. This has led to an increase in the incidence of plant diseases. Although potash could never be described as a fungicide, its correct use can certainly minimise diseases such as blackspot, rust and powdery mildew. These appear most visibly on the leaves and fruit of affected plants, but can affect any part.<br />
<br />
Potassium takes part in more than 40 enzyme actions which help control many plant functions. Of potassium's multiple roles within the plant, one important one is its work in building cellulose, a component of plant cell walls.<br />
If conditions are suitable, a fungus spore will germinate after landing on a host plant and form a tiny root system known as a haustoria. This produces an organic chemical, designed to break down the cellulose barrier of the cell wall and allow the fungus to reach the sap stream, upon which it feeds. If the cell wall is thin, this is achieved with relative ease and the fungus flourishes while the host plant suffers. If the cell wall is thick, the fungal spore is unable to penetrate the cell wall and it eventually dies before it can reach the life-giving sap of the host plant.<br />
<br />
When using organic fertilisers, look at the analysis on the back of the bag - if it contains less than 3% potassium, you should add some to it. About 10% sulphate of potash will usually do the trick. Potash can be applied pure, at a rate of 15g per square metre, for a quick fix.<br />
<br />
For plants that are particularly susceptible to disease, such as roses, it's a good idea to apply about 150g of sulphate of potash to each bush at 3-4 monthly intervals. <br />
<br />
Sulphate of potash is known to improve the quality and the colour of flowers, probably because of the increased enzyme activity. It also enhances the formation of proteins and sugars, probably because it influences photosynthesis, the process by which these sugars are made. <br />
<br />
In frost-prone areas, plants treated with potash are better able to withstand the frost because of the higher cellulose content in the cell walls. Plants with slender stems and large flower heads such as Iceland poppies and Gerberas will hold their heads erect if adequate levels of potash are used.propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-45059544118953803722011-08-08T14:19:00.001-07:002011-08-08T14:19:27.843-07:00Begonia<p>Bedding begonias are neat, compact plants that prefer dappled shade but will adapt to full sun. They require protection from frost and prefer moist, well-drained soil. They need regular watering in dry weather, especially if planted in a sunny position. Begonias will last a second season, and can be cut back after winter.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNG3yNboQHBzJQTfzjV1bftwFxcM3mO5tfS18RcbMZbI4Gtm0BscVQY4FsdrcMQ2lIN3Kvr-drn53U3_f4dg8bEC9PfoopoTorMYhcs4mwzA4Ixu0Uyw7oN5SYY-pOxYTxBybYRL6P_2J/" target="_blank" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNG3yNboQHBzJQTfzjV1bftwFxcM3mO5tfS18RcbMZbI4Gtm0BscVQY4FsdrcMQ2lIN3Kvr-drn53U3_f4dg8bEC9PfoopoTorMYhcs4mwzA4Ixu0Uyw7oN5SYY-pOxYTxBybYRL6P_2J/s500/Begonia_01.jpg" id="blogsy-1312838370446.838" class="alignright" width="259" height="194" alt="Begonia"></a></div><p>Timing:</p><p>Plant from spring through autumn to flowers in spring through to autumn. Will flower 4-6 weeks after planting.</p><p>Positioning:</p><p>Full sun or semi-shade.</p><p>Height:</p><p>20cm</p><p>Planting Distance:</p><p>15-25cm</p><p>Colour:</p><p>Pink, red, & white. Available as straight colours or mixes.</p><p>Use:</p><p>Dwarf bedding, edging, massed display clumps in the garden, rockeries, containers, baskets.</p>propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-43488173167005317322011-08-08T14:14:00.001-07:002011-08-08T14:14:45.814-07:00Alyssum<p> </p><p>Sweet smelling, fast growing, dwarf growing plants with clusters of tiny flowers. Alyssum is delightful for edging, rockeries and ground cover. It drapes attractively over containers, rockeries and walls. Perennial but often treated as an annual, it often self-sows. Responds well to trimming, especially after winter.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2WMbZPhD8dog6i5K-3uDN48dzoylc2NuKPnr-lfb_HtDPJXTtinKqd1Luu8bXiaozjsZnYIAoSrQeQkJKSXuKlXOB_E00xFcPXAdA02jpr4rb2f31k5S8p78M1xEakz-brA-BEbfQkSL/" target="_blank" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI2WMbZPhD8dog6i5K-3uDN48dzoylc2NuKPnr-lfb_HtDPJXTtinKqd1Luu8bXiaozjsZnYIAoSrQeQkJKSXuKlXOB_E00xFcPXAdA02jpr4rb2f31k5S8p78M1xEakz-brA-BEbfQkSL/s500/Alyssum.jpg" id="blogsy-1312838064505.836" class="alignright" width="336" height="177" align="left" alt=""></a></div><p>Timing:</p><p>Plant all year round in most climates for flowers all year round.</p><p>Positioning:</p><p>Prefers full sun. Will grow in semi-shade.</p><p>Height:</p><p>8-10cm</p><p>Planting Distance:</p><p>10-15cm</p><p>Colour:</p><p>Singles or mixes of purple, pink, white & lavender.</p><p>Use:</p><p>Borders, edging, rockeries, mass planting, between bricks or stones in paths and paving, containers.</p>propertymaintenancehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14026196348380641156noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8997877264921892698.post-89682220342711126232011-08-01T18:03:00.001-07:002011-08-01T18:03:18.253-07:00Azalea Lace bugs<div><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #93c47d; font-size: x-large;">Azalea Lace Bugs</span></b><br />
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The Azalea Lace Bug (Stephanitis pyrioides), an insect originating from Japan, is a signicant pest of azaleas and rhododendrons in many regions of the world where these plants are cultivated. The bug especially attacks plants growing in sunny, exposed situations.<br />
Symptoms of lace bug attack<br />
The feeding activity of every stage of the lace bug life cycle produces a widespread grey-whitish/silvery mottling on the upper surfaces of the leaves, similar in colour but coarser in texture to that caused by spider mites. Adult and juvenile lace bugs feed on the undersurfaces of azalea and rhododendron leaves. The mottling is usually so severe that leaves that have been attacked are permanently disfigured. Leaves will die and fall from the plant well before their time. Sticky brown patches or ‘varnish’ (excretory products of the lace bugs) appear on the undersides of the leaves. The Azalea Lace Bug is widespread throughout Australia.<br />
Life cycle<br />
The lace bug has at least two (and possibly four) generations per year in Australia. Adults reach 4-6 mm in length. They have clear, heavily veined wings - hence the insects’ common name. Juvenile lace bugs are wingless, spiny, have long antennae relative to their body length, and have a black and tan mottled colouring giving them an overall dark appearance.<br />
There are probably five nymphal instars. Nymphal moult skins often remain stuck to lace bug varnish on the undersides of leaves. Lace bugs overwinter in the egg stage, hatching when conditions improve for them in the sping. Eggs are inserted into the mid-vein on the underside of the azalea or rhododendron leaf as they are laid. They have a brown protective covering which hardens on contact with air.<br />
Control<br />
Lace bugs are particularly difficult to control. There is currently no known effective biological control agent (e.g. a parasitic wasp). There are some pesticides that are registered for the control of this pest.<br />
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