Pruning citrus trees sydney

 

Fertilising and Pruning

Fertilising

Citrus are high feeders and love fertiliser. In many books you will read, fertilise your citrus twice a year. We have a different opinion. “A little bit - often” is our philosophy. Therefore feed your citrus at least four times per year. Timing is not critical, if you haven’t feed your tree for a while, start now. There are many different commercial citrus fertilisers on the market. We generally don’t recommend these fertilisers as their instructions are often difficult to comprehend,

eg. X kilograms per age of tree.

There is nothing quite like, good old fashioned blood and bone or well rotted chicken manure or cow manure or ‘Organic Life’ or ‘Dynamic Lifter’. Any of these are fine and it’s a good idea to alternate between them. Water your tree well; remove any mulch from around the tree. Spread the fertiliser evenly around the soil underneath the

canopy, but not directly against the trunk. The amount varies, depending on which fertiliser you choose. Don’t be afraid, you can use up to half a bucket, per tree of organic fertiliser. Generally the organic fertilisers are less harmful if you accidentally overfeed. When all else fails, read the instructions on the bag. There is no need to cultivate the fertiliser into the soil as this will only cause damage to the surface roots. Water in well and then replace the mulch.

Citrus in pots also require regular feeding. Fertilise at least four times per year. Either ‘Organic Life’ or ‘Dynamic Lifter’ is great; put a light covering over the entire surface of the pot. If these products are a little too smelly, you can use ‘Osmocote’ or ‘Greenjacket’ slow release fertilisers.

Pruning

Citrus unlike many other fruit trees don’t require annual pruning to aid in fruit production. They can be happily left for

many years unpruned and will still produce an abundance of fruit.

Alternatively, citrus can be pruned into any shape that is desired. Citrus are often trained and pruned into Standards, for a formal topiary effect. Planting citrus close together and regular pruning can form a lovely dense fruiting hedge. Citrus are very adaptable and can be trained and pruned into many shapes only limited by your imagination.

Australian Cumquat pruned as a Standard

Espaliered Citrus are becoming very trendy for the smaller gardens or balconies. An espalier is when the citrus is pruned and shaped flat against a wall or lattice. All varieties of citrus are suitable and it is simply a case of tying the new growth back against the wall, fence or lattice and pruning off, any forward growth that can’t be tied back, creating a flat two dimensional plant. This saves space, creates a beautiful green wall and the citrus still produce an abundance of fruit.

Kaffir Lime trained as an espalier

Old, neglected, citrus can be resurrected by a heavy rejuvenation prune. If the tree is old and ugly and hasn’t fruited well for years attack it with a chain saw, taking it right back to the main fork. This sounds drastic, but the tree was useless as it was, so you have nothing to lose. As it starts to re shoot, fertilise well and water regularly. Most often the tree with comeback better than ever and continue producing fruit for many more years.

 

Basic Deciduous Fruit Tree Pruningfor the Small

For the home orchard, pruning to the vase system is probably the simplest method. If your treeshave been cut back in the nursery, a basic framework may have already been established. Theaim is to select future leaders (main structural limbs) from uniformly spaced shoots of similardiameter (see Figure 1A). The selected leaders should be pruned to about the same height fromthe ground to outside buds. Avoid selecting branches for leaders with narrow crotch angles (lessthan 30 degrees), as they are likely to split under crop load later. If the nursery tree has not beencut back, it will need to be cut off at about 60 cm above ground level and allowed to shoot andgrow on for a year before selecting the leaders

Crotch angle

1. Leave the weakest leader the longest this will encourage it to strengthen. This also means thestrongest leader should be pruned the shortest, to weaken it.

2. Always prune the leaders to an outside bud.

3. Strong growth should be removed if it is heading into the centre of the tree or growing towardsanother leader. The only strong growth to be encouraged should be heading away from thecentre of the tree and in the lower half of the tree.

4. All fruiting arms/side shoots should not grow to be more than one-third the diameter of the limbthey are attached to, at the junction. Growth greater than this ‘one-third’ rule should be removedbefore it takes over from the main limb.

5. All fruiting arms/side shoots should decrease in diameter (strength); the higher in the tree theyare located.

6. Vigorous upright growth (water shoots) growing in the centre of the tree should be removed.These shoots are best removed in the summer before their diameter is such that it requires alarge pruning cut.

7. Prune upright shoots to horizontal side laterals if you wish to weaken their growth.

8. Prune off narrow (weak) crotch angled growth.

9. Remove dead or diseased wood and burn.

10. Remove crowded and crossed over branches and laterals.

 

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Cuttings

How often do we see a lovely shrub or perennial in a friend’s garden and just wish we had one like it? And with a little skill, ingenuity AND your friend’s permission, there’s no reason why you can’t have one or more the same. A word of caution here though, to avoid spreading weeds make sure that you don’t propagate anything you can’t identify, and ALWAYS ask permission. It is very frustrating for proud gardeners with attractive shrubs tumbling over their garden fence to find pieces constantly being ‘ripped’ off by passing walkers. The plant will suffer from needless brutalisation and the ‘cuttings’ may not actually survive the damage of being torn from the parent plant. So just ask!

Cuttings

A cutting is the term we use for lengths of plant material being used specifically to propagate new plants. In contrast to growing plants from seed, where we may get plants that are slightly different from what we expected, cuttings will always be clones of the parent plant from which the cutting was taken. So a camellia cutting from a plant with a pink and white flower will produce another identical camellia with a pink and white flower. If you were to take the seed from that same parent camellia you would not be guaranteed to get a camellia with a pink and white flower. Nature has a tendency to play games when growing from seed, all in the name of maintaining a healthy gene pool, of course!

Softwood, Semi-hardwood and Hardwood Cuttings

These terms relate to the period in the growing cycle when the cutting is taken.

Softwood Cuttings are generally taken in spring and early summer when the plant is putting on its new growth and there are a lot of growth hormones in the plant system. Soft wood cuttings usually strike (start to grow roots) relatively quickly. Chose slightly firmer pieces of plant material and avoid very soft sappy growth. Softwood cuttings generally benefit from the addition of some heat (mentioned further on).

Semi-hardwood Cuttings are taken mid- summer after flowering when the plant is putting on new growth and starting to harden. They strike quickly and give good results without the need for additional heat.

Hardwood Cuttings are generally taken at the end of summer and take longer to strike than those taken earlier in the season. However as this period coincides with the garden’s Autumn pruning, particularly of perennials, it is easy to source cutting materials. And with so much cutting material available, even if some fail, most will be ready to plant the following spring.

Types of Plants suitable for Cuttings

All perennial and shrubby plants provide excellent potential for cuttings. The most successful plant material for cuttings comes from the ‘square’ stemmed plants eg from the Laminaceae family. This includes salvias, mint, rosemary and many other herbs. Many of the perennials in the daisy family, like Federation Daisies, also do well from cuttings however other daisy plants, like Echinacea sps, are best propagated from root division.

Taking cuttings

The preferred cutting length is about 10cm to 12cm with at least 2 to 3 nodes on each cutting. The lower cut should be on an angle just beneath the first node. You can also ‘nick’ the area just beneath the lower node taking care not to damage the node itself. This node will be below the soil surface and this is where the root zone will develop.

The top cut should be made above the next node (or the one above). The entire cutting length should contain 2 or 3 nodes in total. These upper nodes will be where the leaves of the new plant will shoot. Take care not to damage any of the nodes along the cutting length. Plant nodes have the amazing ability to produce either roots or leaves depending on whether they are above or below the soil level which is why cuttings are so effective.

The lower node may be dipped in a ‘rooting hormone’ if desired although if a lower strike rate is acceptable this is not essential. For a natural rooting hormone you may try dipping the cutting in honey.
Reputably pieces of willow (an introduced species) soaked in water for about 10 days produce an excellent rooting hormone. This may be why they have been so successful at colonising our river banks and become serious environmental weeds!! If using this willow method, dispose of the willow pieces carefully so as not to increase their weedy spread. And yes, they probably will be still viable even after 10days in a bucket of water!
Avoid taking cutting from any plant when it is in flower as these cuttings will have less potential for success.
If the cutting has broad-leaf leaves, eg feijoa plants remove all except the top two leaves. If the top two leaves are very large, they can be cut in half laterally so the cutting doesn’t lose too much moisture through the leaves.
If the cuttings have multiple narrow small leaves, eg lavender and rosemary, remove the leaves on the lower 2/3rds of the cutting. The multiple nodes left all have the potential to produce roots when they strike.

Growing Medium

Cuttings do best in a free draining mixture so that they don’t rot. It is best to put lots of cuttings in the same pot rather than single cuttings in many post. The warmth and humidity of having them all clustered together will help them to strike. To increase the warmth and humidity, and maintain heat overnight, if possible cover the pot with a clear plastic ‘hood’ or the end of a polystyrene bottle. If doing this, keep the pot out of direct sunlight so that the air inside in the pot doesn’t heat up too much and ‘cook’ the cuttings. Mist the cuttings regularly to help regulate the temperature and keep a moist environment.

Potting up

Leave the cuttings in the pot long enough for them to establish strong root systems. Remove any cuttings that start to look like they have failed so that you don’t allow rots and fungal problems to enter the pot. They will usually look weak, brown off and begin to rot at the base.
You can generally tell when the cutting has taken if it starts to put on new leaves and to grow. However be patient as the roots may take longer to develop. Continue to water the cuttings until you are ready to pot up.
You can test for roots by gently rocking the cutting. If you feel no resistance, then the roots have probably not yet developed.
When you think the cuttings are ready to pot up, tip the pot gently upside down and remove all of the contents together. Lay on a piece of newspaper and gently start to disentangle the roots. It is important to minimise the damage to these young roots as the vigour of the new plants depends on a strong root system.

Pot the young cuttings into small pots with a good quality potting mix. Water in with a weak solution of seaweed fertiliser or worm leachate tea. Put the cuttings in a sheltered spot to ‘harden off’ before gradually introducing them to a more open environment.

Once the root mass of the cutting starts to fill its new pot, either pot on again or, if the conditions are suitable, plant into a prepared garden bed. And enjoy the fruits of your labour for years to come!

Many new plant cultivars that have been developed over the past decade may be subject to Plant Breeders Rights (PBR). PBR is effectively a plant patent. You may propagate these plants for your own use but NOT for resale unless you pay a royalty to the PBR holder. If in doubt, check the original plant label or seed packet or look for the PBR symbol.

Posted by The Zeal Group. Call us on 1300882787

Potassium

It is well-known that Australian soils are low in phosphorus. What is not so well-known is that many of our soils are also low in potassium. As a result, the animal manures that we increasingly use on our gardens in place of chemical fertilisers are also low in potassium. This has led to an increase in the incidence of plant diseases. Although potash could never be described as a fungicide, its correct use can certainly minimise diseases such as blackspot, rust and powdery mildew. These appear most visibly on the leaves and fruit of affected plants, but can affect any part.

Potassium takes part in more than 40 enzyme actions which help control many plant functions. Of potassium's multiple roles within the plant, one important one is its work in building cellulose, a component of plant cell walls.
If conditions are suitable, a fungus spore will germinate after landing on a host plant and form a tiny root system known as a haustoria. This produces an organic chemical, designed to break down the cellulose barrier of the cell wall and allow the fungus to reach the sap stream, upon which it feeds. If the cell wall is thin, this is achieved with relative ease and the fungus flourishes while the host plant suffers. If the cell wall is thick, the fungal spore is unable to penetrate the cell wall and it eventually dies before it can reach the life-giving sap of the host plant.

When using organic fertilisers, look at the analysis on the back of the bag - if it contains less than 3% potassium, you should add some to it. About 10% sulphate of potash will usually do the trick. Potash can be applied pure, at a rate of 15g per square metre, for a quick fix.

For plants that are particularly susceptible to disease, such as roses, it's a good idea to apply about 150g of sulphate of potash to each bush at 3-4 monthly intervals.

Sulphate of potash is known to improve the quality and the colour of flowers, probably because of the increased enzyme activity. It also enhances the formation of proteins and sugars, probably because it influences photosynthesis, the process by which these sugars are made.

In frost-prone areas, plants treated with potash are better able to withstand the frost because of the higher cellulose content in the cell walls. Plants with slender stems and large flower heads such as Iceland poppies and Gerberas will hold their heads erect if adequate levels of potash are used.

Begonia

Bedding begonias are neat, compact plants that prefer dappled shade but will adapt to full sun. They require protection from frost and prefer moist, well-drained soil. They need regular watering in dry weather, especially if planted in a sunny position. Begonias will last a second season, and can be cut back after winter.

Timing:

Plant from spring through autumn to flowers in spring through to autumn. Will flower 4-6 weeks after planting.

Positioning:

Full sun or semi-shade.

Height:

20cm

Planting Distance:

15-25cm

Colour:

Pink, red, & white. Available as straight colours or mixes.

Use:

Dwarf bedding, edging, massed display clumps in the garden, rockeries, containers, baskets.

Alyssum

Sweet smelling, fast growing, dwarf growing plants with clusters of tiny flowers. Alyssum is delightful for edging, rockeries and ground cover. It drapes attractively over containers, rockeries and walls. Perennial but often treated as an annual, it often self-sows. Responds well to trimming, especially after winter.

Timing:

Plant all year round in most climates for flowers all year round.

Positioning:

Prefers full sun. Will grow in semi-shade.

Height:

8-10cm

Planting Distance:

10-15cm

Colour:

Singles or mixes of purple, pink, white & lavender.

Use:

Borders, edging, rockeries, mass planting, between bricks or stones in paths and paving, containers.

Azalea Lace bugs

Azalea Lace Bugs

 

The Azalea Lace Bug (Stephanitis pyrioides), an insect originating from Japan, is a signicant pest of azaleas and rhododendrons in many regions of the world where these plants are cultivated. The bug especially attacks plants growing in sunny, exposed situations.
Symptoms of lace bug attack
The feeding activity of every stage of the lace bug life cycle produces a widespread grey-whitish/silvery mottling on the upper surfaces of the leaves, similar in colour but coarser in texture to that caused by spider mites. Adult and juvenile lace bugs feed on the undersurfaces of azalea and rhododendron leaves. The mottling is usually so severe that leaves that have been attacked are permanently disfigured. Leaves will die and fall from the plant well before their time. Sticky brown patches or ‘varnish’ (excretory products of the lace bugs) appear on the undersides of the leaves. The Azalea Lace Bug is widespread throughout Australia.
Life cycle
The lace bug has at least two (and possibly four) generations per year in Australia. Adults reach 4-6 mm in length. They have clear, heavily veined wings - hence the insects’ common name. Juvenile lace bugs are wingless, spiny, have long antennae relative to their body length, and have a black and tan mottled colouring giving them an overall dark appearance.
There are probably five nymphal instars. Nymphal moult skins often remain stuck to lace bug varnish on the undersides of leaves. Lace bugs overwinter in the egg stage, hatching when conditions improve for them in the sping. Eggs are inserted into the mid-vein on the underside of the azalea or rhododendron leaf as they are laid. They have a brown protective covering which hardens on contact with air.
Control
Lace bugs are particularly difficult to control. There is currently no known effective biological control agent (e.g. a parasitic wasp). There are some pesticides that are registered for the control of this pest.



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